BGY 54 - BIOLOGY OF THE ANDES/GALÁPAGOS

WINTER 2000

(2 February 1999)

COURSE OVERVIEW

I. Objectives

This course is multifaceted and has several specific objectives that reflect the diversity of the locations to which we will be traveling: the Andes, the Galápagos, and the upper Amazon basin. The central objective is to gain an appreciation for tropical environments and the ecological and evolutionary forces that have shaped the plants and animals. On the mainland of Ecuador, we will study and observe the adaptations of plants and animals in a variety of environments, from high altitudes that are cold and relatively dry to regions that are lower with a hot and humid climate. Contrasts will naturally be drawn with areas in Costa Rica. During the days that we are in the upper Amazon region, we will focus our attention on the relationships among economic development, preservation, and indigenous rights. Ecuador, like many tropical nations, is trying to balance environmental priorities with harsh economic realities. The area that we will visit in Cuyabeno presents opportunities for examining alternative points of view about how the environment should be managed, utilized or preserved. We will hopefully visit an oil operation and talk with a representative from one of the oil companies and from one of the local communities. It will be a lesson in conflict resolution and provides insights into the role that ecologists might play in conservation biology. In the Galápagos, we will study and discuss not only the biology of organisms, but the physical environment of the islands. The harsh and varied conditions of the islands has been one of the forces that has shaped the evolution of the organisms that live there. The overall theme will be one of evolution. Dispersal and natural selection will be important topics.

During our six week program, it is in Ecuador where we will especially turn our attention to the cultural aspects of Latin America. Our travels will take us from cosmopolitan Quito, to colonial Cuenca, to villages of weavers, and to huts of Amazonian people. When we are in two of the oldest cities (Quito and Cuenca) in the Hemisphere we will see the insides of colonial churches that date from the early 1600’s. Some of the villages that we will visit closely resemble society as it has existed for the past 300 years. You will see some of the Incan and pre-Incan ruins. Ample opportunity to use your Spanish here!

II. Tentative Itinerary:

By the time we arrive in Ecuador, you will have realized that the specifics of our plans can change at any time. We will remain flexible, but our general plan is as follows:

 On the 31st of January we will be up early in San José to catch our flight to Quito (yes, say that to yourself a few times, you really are going to South America, that’s South America!). We will arrive at midday; and sometimes the tips of the Andes break through the clouds, so we can see the mountains from the plane before landing in Quito. We are going to be at an elevation over 8,000 feet, so go slow! This afternoon we will go for a tour of colonial Quito - what a start to another exciting 3 weeks!

 After exchanging money in the morning, we will board a plane for the town of Lago Agrio. This is an oil ‘boom’ town. The hustle and bustle of the town contrast to the tranquil pace of the rainforest. After several hours traveling in a bus over a gravel road, we will arrive at the Cuyabeno River where dugout canoes will be waiting to take us up river to the ‘lodge’. The lodge is actually a cluster of thatched roofed huts perched on stilts above the flood plain. Perhaps there will be water underneath the huts; it just depends on the rain. The next day we will head in the canoes to the lake district. Monkeys will scamper away as the boat moves along. Lots of birds and perhaps a chance to swim with the River dolphins (and piranhas!). With luck we will meet with some people from the Siona group. There will be time to explore the rainforest of the Amazon and compare some of its features with that which we saw in Costa Rica.

Then, it’s back to Quito on 4 Feb. Our guide will help us load the bus for our brief drive to the Otavalo region in the northern part of the country. Get ready to shop! The next day is Saturday and that means market day in Otavalo. After a brief stop at the livestock market (do you need a pig?), we are off to the best textile market in the Americas. Sweaters and blankets abound. Buy a sweater for the cool altitudes ahead. We will end the day with an afternoon visit to Cotacachi, the center for leather products in Ecuador. That evening we will drive to El Angel, our first of several visits to the páramo life zone. The next morning we will begin our exploration of this unique and wonderful habitat. We’ll see Espeletia hartwegiana, a type of plant found only in the Andes of Ecuador and Colombia. The greatest concentration of these plants will be found upon reaching an altitude of 3,400 meters above sea level. The scenery will be accented by volcanic cones and ravines where, on a lucky day, the Andean condor might be seen soaring high above in the clouds. We will hike to a lagoon to observe waterfowl at "El Voladero". The next morning we will rise early (you’ll be used to it by now!) and drive north for about 20 minutes to reach a forest of Polylepis trees located in a lush montane habitat, at about 2,800 meters above sea level. We will be on the western Andean slopes from where the waters flow into the Pacific Ocean. Later we’ll visit the quaint village of Morán, situated at an altitude of 1600 meters above sea level, with lush subtropical vegetation with many streams. The 30 families living in the area will provide us with horses to explore the region. In the afternoon we will return to our bus and then backtrack to Quito for an early evening arrival, where the next day is free for you to spend as you see fit!

Beginning the 9th of February, we will head south toward Cuenca, traveling by bus. Along the way we will visit farming communities and study the geologic and ecological difference between the old and young volcanic formations. You will be experts in this topic by then. Our first day will be spent at Cotopaxi, the mountain that towers over the city of Quito. This will be our second visit to the páramo, but as you will see, this area is very different than what you saw at El Angel. We’ll continue this theme with a visit to the beautiful peaks of Chimborazo. We will visit the Ingapirca Inca Ruins and finally arrive in Cuenca on the 11th of February. In addition to touring the colonial city and seeing where ‘Panama’ hats are made, we will visit the dry páramo of El Cajas National Park. This area is breathtakingly beautiful! The lowest elevation in Cajas is 10,395 feet. Some Incan ruins can be found in this area, too.

On the 13th of February we will first visit the market at Gualaceo, then fly back to Quito and on to the Galápagos the very next day, February 14th. Once we change planes in Guayaquil, it will take another hour or so to get to the Galápagos. All of a sudden, you will see the dark outlines of an island among the crystal blue seas. We are there! Once on the ground, we will meet our guide, and the crew will help get our luggage to our boat, the Cruz del Sur. This will be our home for 7 nights. We have the whole boat to ourselves; it has a capacity of 16. In the Galápagos the captain has the ultimate authority with respect to our destination and route. He will consider weather, currents, and the travel patterns of other tour vessels (in order to avoid them, if possible, so that we can see the wildlife without other groups nearby). As such, the exact itineary in the islands may change; however, we may want to visit the following: Española (Hood), Floreana, Rabida, Genovesa (Tower), Isabela, San Salvador (James), Fernandina, Bartolomé, Baltra, South Plaza, Santa Cruz, and Santa Fe. Get out a map and trace a possible route among the islands. Start at San Cristobal. Virtually every morning and afternoon, we will explore one of the nature trails on the islands and cap the session with a snorkel excursion or a boat ride to look at wildlife.

 On the 21st of February we will say goodbye to the Galápagos, our guide and crew and board the early afternoon flight for Quito. We will have a special farewell dinner and then on the 22nd depart for the USA and Greenville.

III. Tentative Requirements:

    1. Term Paper (25% of course grade)
You will select the topics next week from the list that is attached. The sign up will start at 7:00 a.m. on the 16th of February. The order of the sign up is determined by the order in which you applied for the program. Each of you have a three hour period during which you may select a topic. Do not sign up before your time period begins; if you are late, however, you may still sign up. Of course, someone else may have already chosen your topic. The paper will be due at our first meeting in fall term (20 September 1999). The paper must be typed and is not to exceed 15 pages. Approach the paper with care, it represents 25% of your course grade. To help you move forward on this you will turn in an outline for your paper by the 30th of April for review. It will be evaluated and counted toward your term paper grade. A reading list will follow, but obviously your text is a logical starting point. Please stop by to talk with me about your topics so that we can discuss it more fully. References are important and desired. Your grade will be reflected by the extent that you have researched your topic. You will also make a brief oral presentation to the rest of the group during the trip.
    1. Exam (20% of your course grade)
The exam will take place on 30 September 1999. It will cover the text book for the course, Galápagos: A Natural History Guide, by M.H. Jackson and lectures given earlier that month.
    1. Journal (25% of your course grade)
 You will receive detailed instructions on this component in the fall, but it will be similar to the one you prepare in Costa Rica. It will be a scientific diary, in which you will record the events of the day, your observations, and your reflections on these. The journal should be detailed and meaningful, both biologically and personally. It will probably be the most important record of your trip, and you will refer back to it time and time again. We will also keep a ‘group journal’, with different students serving as group journalist for the day. Your contribution to the group journal is part of this grade. D. Writing Assignments (10% of your course grade) There will be several additional writing assignments during the trip; assignments where you will simply sit, reflect, and write. The assignments are meant to isolate you from the group and give you a chance to interact with the habitat on your own terms. These will be quiet, reflective times; not hectic "I have to write a paper" times. E. Photo essay (10% of your course grade) When we return, you will select one of your photos from the second portion of the trip, either in the Galápagos, the Andes, or the Amazon. The photo should illustrate an important biological or conservation principle. You will submit a 5 x 7 print and a 250 word essay explaining the significance of your image. F. Participation (10% of your course grade) You are expected to participate fully in all aspects of the trip and to contribute to the success of the trip in your own special way. Group spirit is essential! Punctuality is an important part of participation! It is also expected that you will demonstrate a willingness to learn and intellectual curiosity.
  1. Books and Readings
    1. Text (soon to be available in the bookstore)
  1. H. Jackson. 1991. Galápagos: A Natural History Guide.
    1. Readings
No list of readings is comprehensive. You will want to develop your own, especially as you work on your paper and get yourself ready for the program. Later, a reading list will be distributed. Watching those specials on television are certainly ways that you can prepare, too. Remember that this is the trip of a lifetime; those that have read more prior to departure will learn more from the experience.

TERM PAPER TOPICS: (one person per topic) 

  1. Ecology of the páramo Discuss the adaptations (both ecological and physiological) of plants and animals to high altitudes, emphasizing those of tropical regions. You should discuss the differences between moist and dry páramo habitats. Be sure to include a section on the impact of humans now and in the past on this unique montane community.
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  3. Indigenous groups to the Spaniards The objective is to understand the historical and cultural context of the Ecuadorian society of today. When the Spaniards arrived in this hemisphere, South America was already rich in cultural heritage. Ecuador had been impacted by the advanced society of the Incas who extended their territory northward from its center in Cuzco; then came the effects brought by Francisco Pizarro and his followers. You should discuss Ecuador, its current political, societal, and economic status. Be sure to develop the roles of the local indigenous groups, the Incas, and post-colonial settlers.
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  5. Oil and the Amazon Briefly highlight the procedures used by oil companies to extract crude. Emphasize the conflicts between economic pressures for development and extraction of oil and ecological issues of preservation of biodiversity. What are the reasons for the preservation of biodiversity? You may use examples from around the world (particularly Costa Rica) to highlight some "solutions" by which governments and private industries are attempting to achieve sustainable development and conservation of biodiversity. What are the rights of the indigenous groups? What are the responsibilities of the developers?
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  7. Geology of the Galápagos Describe the formation of the Galápagos Islands, the types of volcanic rock and the various kinds of lava flows. The shapes of the volcanoes and the physical appearance of the islands should be mentioned.
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  9. Climate of Ecuador and the Galápagos The impact of the Humboldt Current on the climate of the region is substantial. Discuss how oceanic currents influence the weather on the Galápagos. What shapes the climate of mainland Ecuador, and what are the biotic zones of Ecuador? Be sure to provide a detailed description of the El Niño phenomenon, especially in the last few years. Address seasonal and altitudinal patterns.
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  11. Tortoises of the Galápagos Describe the general natural history of the Galápagos tortoises. Discuss the different subspecies that inhabit the islands by describing their differences. Relate these differences to the different evolutionary pressures that the progenitors of today’s tortoises faced on the different islands. Include a brief overview of human exploitation and extermination. Finish with a synopsis of conservation efforts.
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  13. Introduced Species in the Galápagos Goats, cattle, cats, dogs, rats, and a variety of other animals and plants have been introduced to the island by humans. Describe the effects of these species on the native flora and fauna. What are the implications for the conservation of the islands? Describe the eradication campaigns that have been implemented. Discuss the general effects of introduced species; why do they occasionally have such catastrophic effects on native communities?
  14. Ecology of the marine invertebrates and vertebrates of the Galápagos Go beyond merely describing the species that are found among the shores and reefs of the Galápagos, though that certainly should be a part of your paper. Discuss the natural history of these organisms (you may want to choose a few out of the many). Relate some of the important ecological and physiological interactions that occur in these habitats and describe the processes that are important in these diverse communities.
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  16. Iguanas Contrast the natural history and the distribution of the marine and land iguanas. How did this group arrive on the islands? Describe the variability of these lizards across the different islands in the archipelago and relate their adaptations (both ecologically and physiologically) to the environments on different islands.
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  18. Darwin’s Finches The genus Geospiza is a classic example of adaptive radiation. Discuss this process and describe the habits of this drab but unique set of birds. Explain their significance to Darwin’s germinal thoughts on evolution.
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  20. Seabirds of the Galápagos Describe the natural history of boobies, frigate birds, tropicbirds, albatrosses and gulls. Be sure to relate the distribution of specific species to their feeding habits. Also, describe the unique courtship and nesting habits of the three booby species.
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  22. Plants of the Galápagos Include a description of the vegetational zones and altitudinal variation seen on the Galápagos. Discuss the adaptations of different plants and how an examination of these adaptations can provide clues about the environment in which these plants grow. Compare some of the taxa with counterparts on the mainland.
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  24. Fur Seals and Sea Lions of the Galápagos Contrast the natural history and occurrence of these two animals on the islands. Discuss their social systems, feeding patterns and their geographic distribution.
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  26. Humans in the Galápagos You may want to begin with the history of colonists in the Galápagos then discuss who visited or settled in the Galápagos. How did the islands become a possession of Ecuador? Ecotourism is obviously a major factor in current Galápagos society. Discuss its impact and the current conservation status of the islands. Be sure to mention economic development of the islands and current conflicts between development and conservation.
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  28. Feathered Friends in the Galápagos There are a variety of interesting birds that inhabit the islands. Describe the adaptations of the endemic populations of flightless cormorants, penguins, hawks, doves, and mockingbirds. It’s an eclectic group; the theme of evolution and adaptation in an ecological vacuum is one thing that unites them that can hold this topic together.
  16. Charles Darwin Write a biography of this giant of biology and western civilization. Focus on his early life, the voyage of the Beagle, and how the voyage affected his perspective. Compare and contrast his ideas with those of Lyell, Lamarcke, and Wallace.