Furman's Summer China Experience, July 2005

(A Lighthearted Interpretation)

 

Part I: Suzhou Sojourn

 

Introduction:

In July 2005 a group of incoming Furman University freshmen spent two weeks learning and touring in China. After a full day of air travel we began the experience with a stay in the city of Suzhou, sometimes called the "Venice of China. Here the students were paired up Chinese roommates from Suzhou University's English language program. . After a full week of academic seminars and local tours in Suzhou we headed out for a visit to Beijing, went for a climb of Huangshan Mountain and a visit the historic Anhui villages, and wrapped up with a brief stay in Shanghai.

The travel study program was funded through a generous gift from Beth and Ravenel Curry to support Chinese studies. In exchange, freshman participants have agreed to take one year of instruction in the Chinese language at Furman. As a scholar with an interest in the American Civil War era and nineteenth century nationalization movements (particularly the Italian Risorgimento), I was invited to offer a session on nationalism and national identity for the Furman and Suzhou students during the seminar portion of the program. I also joined the group as a guest on the national tour. The images and stories that follow are a brief documentary account of our experiences from my own (highly idiosyncratic) perspective. Although this narrative is based on real events, what follows is for general amusement only; any similarity to academic sophistication or intellectual robustness, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

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Amazing Race Task Number One: collect and gather participants. You have never met them before, they don't know each other, they will be flying in from seven different airports. Meet some of them at the Greenville-Spartanburg International Airport, others at Chicago/O'Hare, (ever wonder who this guy O'Hare was, anyway?) and find still others at San Francisco Airport. You will then be asked to clear all participants through customs at Shanghai's Pudong Airport, even though you speak less than six sentences of Chinese. At the airport Dr. Kiely will meet you for your next assignment. If you leave anyone behind or miss any of the required three flights you may not advance your token to Boardwalk, you may not pass Go, and you may not collect $200.

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When traveling to China there is strict etiquette about only touching people who own or who are wearing a red bandana.

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Twenty six hours of travel and still ready for some suitcase curls and other travel calisthenics.

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Despite the palm trees, I was pretty sure we were no longer in South Carolina.

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Whether from Rock Hill, China, or Trinidad and Tobago, it's never too late to learn from other cultures.

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It appears to be an ordinary lazy susan, but some theorists have speculated that it is actually a representation of the infinite cycles of time and humanity's ceaseless quest for spiritual nourishment.

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A path with no footsteps, soul mirror, those who see Suzhou are never twice the same.

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Suzhou signs.

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No hobbits here, just some gateways to legal enlightenment at the Suzhou law school.

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Fifty computers, eighty smokers, and two tiny rooms. Welcome to the sweet traveler's dream that is an Internet bar in China.

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When going abroad it is important to savor every aspect of the local culture.

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We learned in our seminar that the Confucian ideal of education requires the wise intersection of thought, learning, and laughter.

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Mathematicians studying this small temple have concluded that it is technically a lotus common denominator.

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Even Mae West would have peeled these delightful grapes in the Humble Administrator's Garden.

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Trail mix for the mind.

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We can only admire the days when scholar officials retired to the gardens to consider their duties to the people.

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At Furman University we expect all first year students to explore a variety of paths less traveled.

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Bamboo. Here one finds the ancient symbol of modesty, self-control, and the purity of nature.

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Increase. It furthers one to cross the great water.

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And what finer way to finish your visit to the Humble Administrator's garden than by lingering in the Humble Administrator's Humbly Cheap Souvenir Courtyard and Reflection Square?

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While in Suzhou we spent a fair amount of time considering the meaning and symbolism of Italian national culture.

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The increasing popularity of automobiles in China has resulted in the construction of quite a few three car garages.

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Hey everyone! It's a really big and really famous old dude!

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Every respectable student movement has a sit-down strike now and then to demonstrate solidarity and unity.

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Looked at but cannot be seen - it is beneath form;
Listened to but cannot be heard - it is beneath sound;
Held but cannot be touched - it is beneath feeling;
These depthless things evade definition,
And blend into a single mystery.

-- Tao te Ching..

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After a careful explanation of the role played by Confucian temple rituals in imperial China, Prof. Kiely shares his secrets for winning at cards, dice, and pitch-penny.

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The sign says it all...

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Who knew that the mere act of taking the bus would be a textbook lesson in cultural adaptation, appropriation, and revitalization?

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Although Confucius had a reputation for being wise, it is obvious that he and his followers didn't have enough sense to come in out of the rain.

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Claire, meet globalization. Globalization, meet Claire!

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We will not soon forget the generosity, friendship, and good humor of the Suzhou students. It was a fine example of Southern China hospitality.

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Here is the Ruiguang (Auspicious Light) Pagoda on an inauspicious day for light.

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It's not quite the same as picnic shelter #2 at Stewart Park, but this temple garden will suffice if you're in the neighborhood.

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Nobody but a trained physicist really understands what is truly happening here with this arch bridge.

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There is an unsubstantiated rumor that these three boats will soon be converted into roving Starbucks Coffee bars.

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The biggest challenge facing those of us who use inexpensive digital cameras is not the lack of F-stop control or a bothersome shutter lag, but rather the challenge of framing a shot to avoid the small army of trinket sellers who camp out on each end of the bridge. Fortunately, having been warned earlier by the police I was able to get a good shot and avoid being taken in.

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Standing on the banks of the Grand Canal and looking at Suzhou's majestic city walls and pagodas, one inevitably thinks of one thing alone: "when will those boats we saw be ready to float by with my tasty cup of coffee?"

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A triumphant trio flush with our first few days of exploration.

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The receive visitors place welcomes the experienced tall professor guide person.

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Please study the map carefully, in preparation for getting lost down any number of alleys and courtyards not shown on this diagram.

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It is never too rainy to spend a morning bargaining in the shops.

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Lu Zhi Rockettes.

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Temple sculptures are sometimes multilayered in their imagery and representation.

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These participants learned that respect for nature and tradition are best embodied in harmonious twin recycling bins.

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I know it's picturesque, but can I drive my Hummer down this street?

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The dark weight of solemn years pervades the courtyard of the seventeenth century Tianwang Hall. It is good, therefore, that the smiles of entering Furman freshmen brighten the place up a bit.

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The trained Cormorants of Lu Zhi catch fish for their owners. These particular birds have recently been placed under contract with Long John Silver's.

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It is good luck to wear orange in the rain.

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The boat drivers sang traditional river songs from ancient China. We sang "99 Bottles of Beer on Wall" and "Old McDonald had a Farm."

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Many thanks to the Suzhou students, who made our stay in their community so rewarding.