Week Two

Friday, July 27:

9:20 A.M. Depart Kingston for Montego Bay, Air Jamaica #81

11:50 A.M. Depart Montego Bay for Havana, Air Jamaica #61

7:00 P.M. Depart Havana for Santigo de Cuba

Overnight at:

The Hotel Versalles
Carretera del Morro
PH: 226-9-1016 or 9-1504

We waited for 8 hours in the Havana airport for our connection to Santiago de Cuba. While waiting I saw old cars in the parking lot. It was like being transported back to the 50s! [jb0411.jpg] [jb0410.jpg] This family bought some birds in the airport concession area. [jb0412.jpg] We enjoyed a delicious meal -- congris (beans and rice) and pork at a restaurant not far from the airport terminal.

There was kind-of a keystone cops episode... We were given wrong information about the location of the terminal for our flight... so we wound up at the wrong place. Cuban ingenuity & motivation saved the day. Cubans marshalled 3 old taxis & we arrived to the correct terminal in plenty of time.

The terminal was out in the country. We checked in then waited at least an hour at a "gate" which was a thatched roof, patio, and bar.

When I saw the older plane and the lightning in the distance (storms on the horizon), I was reminded again of my mortality. Boarded a prop plane that seemed older than any I have boarded in my life (relatively speaking). There were no empty seats. There was no air conditioning until the flight began. I shared my row with a man I have dubbed "Mr. Clean" since his head was clean-shaven. He had a hairy chest (which was exposed in his jumpsuit-style clothing). Gold chains dangled from his neck. He was carrying a partially damaged birthday cake. The engine noise during the flight was very loud. The lightning continued in the distance. But it was an amazingly smooth ride! Hats off to the pilots!

Nestor, our guide and driver, met us at the Santiago de Cuba airport. A bathroom maid insistently hitched a ride with us. I was rather taken aback by her insistance to ride in an already-packed van but learned that hitching a ride is common and necessary since so few own cars. It was a good thing she came with us since she actually knew where our hotel was located. By this time it was past midnight. When we arrived at the hotel, they had sold our rooms! But it all worked out for the best since we were upgraded to a better hotel.

Hotel Santiago Meliá -- "the most recently built hotel in Santiago combines metal and polychrome structures, the work of a Cuba architect. A striking contrast with the colonial atmosphere of the rest of the city." From Cuba, a Knopf Guide, 2000. [sta1101.jpg]

Santiago de Cuba

"If you fancy what is old, African, musical and mountainous, Santiago is perfect. Fewer dollars make it here so visitors who look like foreigners will have to deal with human contradictions of the two-tiered economy in the form of creative street hustlers. Most of Cuba's revolutions began here -- the site of the Moncada Barracks attacked by Castro's guerillas." (Culture Shock! Cuba, Mark Cramer, 2000.) It is the second largest city in Cuba with 420,000.

Didn't go to sleep until 1:30 A.M.

Saturday, July 28: Santiago de Cuba

Full day with free tour of Old Santiago

One of the waitresses approached me about contacting her brother in Houston. I gave her one of my cards and a Furman pen (I was equipped with plenty of Furman pens and pencils thanks to the Admissions and the Education Departments).

We started out the morning at Parque Céspedes. [jb0416.jpg] Agreed on a time to meet up again, later in the afternoon. Began at Casa Diego Velázquez -- which is considered to be the oldest house in Cuba (1516) with Christina, Sofia, Robin, Marian and Brian. Bought a number of wood carvings here [jb0417.jpg] and saw a history written by Eliades Acosta (the Director of the José Martí National Library in Havana).

We walked to the Balcón de Velázquez which provided a great view of the bay. [jb0423.jpg] We had to pay a dollar to get in... and there was a woman who took money and another who was chatting with her. The second woman followed Marian and me and invited us to her house for a little ham sandwich. She let us know that she wanted to get some dollars... and was there anything she could offer us?

Marian and I explored the streets together. [jb0419.jpg] We walked up the steps of Padre Pico. [jb0501.jpg] People kept approaching us asking if we were French, German or Spanish. Also, they asked us for money. We had drinks at the Hotel Casa Granda. It had a wonderful balcony overlooking the Parque Céspedes. Bought a small painting from Rafael Campana who was selling his work at a store in the Hotel Casa Granda. It was fun walking through the city's neighborhoods. [jb0420.jpg] [jb0425.jpg] It was a treat to stumble upon public art like these murals. [jb0506.jpg] [jb0422.jpg]

Since the Revolution began in the Oriente (the Eastern part of the country), it was not surprising to see so many patriotic billboards promoting it. Here are some examples with their translations:

[jb0510.jpg]	Country before all.
[jb0512.jpg]	We are sure of victory.
[jb0514.jpg]	Revolution is the profound conviction that there is no force in the world capable of destroying the force of truth and ideas.

We happened upon a truck load of kids in costumes who were going to perform at one of the parks or plazas. They were really friendly. [jb0504.jpg] People we met on the street were very cordial.

We enjoyed really good live music at the Casa de la Trova. [jb0520.jpg] Unfortunately a woman pestered us about giving her money. After trying to ignore her, I realized that she had sneaked up behind our seats in the audience. Was she going to steal or just keep pestering?

Returned to hotel. Had a sore throat. Slept, then met the group downstairs. Had a mojito. Did not feel well enough to go out to dinner with the group. They had planned to go to the Carnival later on. The hotel provided access to CNN. Saw "Larry King Live." Will the Condit/Levy speculations never cease?

Terri mentioned that our room was very cold. It seems fine to me, but I may be running a fever.

Sunday, July 29:

A.M. Departure for (faraway) Camagüey

See Cuba from the van window

Overnight at:

The Hotel Camagüey
Carretera Central
Camagüey
PH: 322-8-726-770

Awoke at 4:00 A.M. with a sore throat. Gargled with the Appleton rum. Felt much better.

After breakfast took a walk in a neighborhood near the hotel. Saw this quote on a wall:

"Los hombres van en dos bandos: los que aman y fundan, los gue odian y deshacen." -- José Martí

We loaded up the van and said goodbye to Santiago Meliá Hotel. As we were waiting for Nestor to pick us up, I noticed a man who was using a machete to hedge the lawn in front of the hotel. [jb0601.jpg] On our way out of town, we stopped in the upscale Vista Alegre neighborhood several blocks from the hotel. [jb0602.jpg] There was a MIG jet in the yard of the Young Pioneers. A man approached me while I was walking by myself in the neighborhood. His name: Ventura Figueras Lores. He is a newspaper reporter in Guantánamo and mentioned that he had family members who had worked for years for the American military base there. [jb0603.jpg]

Moncada Barracks Museum [jb0604.jpg]
On July 26, 1953, Fidel Castro and his comrades tried to begin the Revolution by taking over these barracks. Due to a series of mishaps the effort failed. Some members of Castro's group were tortured and some killed. He was captured, jailed and eventually exiled to Mexico.

Greta, our guide, was impressive. Her English was terrific. She even used the idiom "burning the midnight oil."

Visited the Santa Ifigenia Cemetery -- where José Martí and Carlos Manuel de Céspedes (who fought for independence from Spain in the 1860s) are buried.

On way to Camagüey -- a surprising number of hitch-hikers. Soldiers, well-dressed men, women, and children. Many bicyclists!

We stopped in Bayamo and enjoyed a wonderful lunch at Paladar El Polinesio. [jb0608.jpg] Nestor knows the good places to eat all over the country because he drives for the Fraternity of Baptists and travels all around the country. Enjoyed tamales and beer. [jb0607.jpg] The toilet was located precariously close to the table where the 12 of us were eating. [jb0606.jpg]

Various members of the group read aloud portions of guidebooks as we traveled in the van.

Arrived at Hotel Horizonte @ 9:00 P.M.
Our room was very rustic. The lighting was suitable for only one person to read. I asked Terri if I could have the bed near the lamp mainly because it is in front of the window air conditioner and I believe I am running a fever. Can't use hairdryer because of the plugs. Will be "singin' and swingin' the feminine natural." Already have foregone the use of any make-up. Now I will be air-drying my hair.

So far, I haven't seen one newspaper stand or a newspaper -- even a Cuban one! Thank goodness for occasional access to CNN via hotels.

Not feeling well so turned in early.

Monday, July 30: Camagüey

Full Day tour with free time

Mojitos, live music & dancing in the bar. L

Camagüey

Camagüey, like Santiago de Cuba, was founded by Diego Velázquez in 1514. It's the 3rd largest city in Cuba with a population of 300,000. The city's symbol is a clay pot used for collecting rainwater during times when there was a shortage of drinking water. Truly a bicycle mecca! I saw more bicycles in this city than in any other. [jb0619.jpg] [jb0622.jpg] There was even a parking garage for bikes. [jb0625.jpg]

We were on our own in downtown Camagüey. Began at the Plaza de los Trabajadores. [jb0618.jpg] I saw an older man selling copies of Granma -- one of the official Cuban newspapers, and a vehicle for the communist party.

A group of us began at the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Merced. Lovely older woman whose father graduated from Tulane in 1910 gave a group of us a tour. In the lovely church courtyard, we saw these parrots. [jb0613.jpg]

We walked through neighborhoods. Throughout Cuba it was common to see people playing dominoes on street sidewalks. [jb0621.jpg] Visited the Casa de Nicolás Guillén, a famous Cuban author. Also visited the Plaza de San Juan and Parque Agramonte. Met up with the group for lunch -- spaghetti con chorizo y queso (not too tasty).

While walking in one neighborhood, I passed a young Cuban man who was wearing a Marilyn Manson t-shirt -- a demonstration of the far-reaching effects of the American music scene!

Visited Biblioteca Provincial Julio Antonio Meliá (the provincial library). [jb0623.jpg] Tried to meet the director of the municipal library -- but to no avail. Monday morning cleaning -- not open to public. Talked to some of the staff. No weekly schedule was posted on the door.

Sent postcard to Bill. I wonder when he will receive it. [Note: postcards were received 2 - 3 weeks after mailing.]

Had a drink at the Bar de Cambio near Plaza de Ignacio Agramonte with Brian and Dick. Harrassed by an older lady from the street, we moved to a different table to avoid her. Very sad. While we were there, someone made a sketch of Brian then wanted him to buy it. Also, someone washed a car outside of the bar thinking it belonged to one of the guys... The man who washed it was surprised when we left walking. The desire for dollars is so strong... but for the Cuban people it can mean the difference between bare subsistence and living comfortably.

Returned to the hotel feeling poorly -- sore throat, cough, feels like a respiratory infection. Slept. For dinner, ate at a paladar (a private home). [jb0626.jpg] Wonderful dinner. Baked chicken, salad, congris, maduros (fried sweet bananas), totones (starchier-tasting bananas).

Began taking ibuprofen to get some relief from the fever, sore throat and general achiness.

Tuesday, July 31:

A.M. Departure for Trinidad

P.M. Free time

Overnight at:

The Hotel Costasur
Playa María Aguilar
PH: 419-6174

The birds acted as my alarm clock. What a lovely way to awaken!

Woke feeling congested. Took more ibuprofen & an antihistamine.

Breakfast was a totally different system compared to yesterday. There's a menu today (yesterday there was no menu). There is no self-serve (yesterday there was). Also, different wait staff. Today I had to sign a check (yesterday I did not).

Stopped in Santi Espíritu for lunch. I was surprised to find such a formal restaurant. The soup was delicious. Snapped photos of an aqueduct [jb0628.jpg] , a cobble-stoned street and house [jb0629.jpg] and a stone wall mural. [jb0630.jpg] Met a brother and sister -- in their late teens, early 20s from Ireland. They had backpacks and were traveling around the country.

Stopped to view "el Valle de los Ingenios" (the valley of sugar mills). It spans 19 miles between Trinidad and Santi Espíritu. Gorgeous! [jb0631.jpg] [jb0632.jpg] Symbol of slavery since at one time, when sugar cane was in demand, over 11,000 Africans worked there. Designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

Stopped in a poor Trinidad neighborhood. Was accosted by several kids wanting pencils. They were too aggressive... which doused some feeling of compassion in me.

Arrived at Trinidad after 6:00 P.M. Feeling much worse. Throat hurts, congested, bad cough.

At Hotel Costasur, we had bungalows near the sea... which sounds nice but in reality, they were hot and mosquito infested. I affectionately referred to this "resort" as "mosquito village". I had to wear mosquito repellent at night. Then, put repellent on again in the morning, after my shower.

Still, the view, a stone's throw away from our rooms was lovely! [jb0633.jpg] This wall of rocks and sea life was fascinating. [jb0634.jpg] The flowers and greenery were spectacular! [jb0635.jpg] [jb0636.jpg]

Bill told us at dinner that today is his 61st birthday! During dinner I had the chance to chat with Nestor. Beef is very difficult for the Cuban people to purchase. Cows are used for milk. Milk is used for children. Beef is usually reserved for those who are ill and in hospitals.

Turned in early because I was not feeling well. Brian is also not feeling well.

Wednesday, August 1: Trinidad

A.M. ½ day tour with guides

Possible visit with Carlos Zerguera, city historian

I felt bad but pushed myself not to miss anything on today's agenda. Began using Sofia's natural remedy along with ibuprofen and antihistamine. Besides... the hotel was not a comfortable place to be sick. Mosquitos, heat (air conditioner did not work well), no good TV stations (and no CNN).

Billboard:

"El arte es un arma de la revolucion." -- Fidel

Trinidad

Designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO. This city grew prosperous during the 19th century sugar boom (from sugar cane) but then was hit hard by competition from the sugar beet. The family mansions and palaces have been preserved during a century-long economic decline. Founded in 1514 by Diego Velázquez.

This city was the most architecturally beautiful of any city so far. [jb0702.jpg]

Iglesia Parroquial de la Santísima Trinidad [jb0704.jpg]
Plaza Mayor [jb0705.jpg]

Martha Castellano Bosch -- our guide is a librarian and historian. She told her story about having triplets. It was quite a media event for the area. Her husband is an artist who makes and sells jewelry. She spoke only in Spanish and was very articulate and intelligent. However, she talked so quickly and gave us so much information about the architecture and history at once... it was a challenge for Sofia and Christina to keep up. Here is Martha (in the middle) with Sofia and Christina. [jb0708.jpg]

We visited two families' houses. One of a higher class... large, with murals underneath the stucco on some walls, very spacious. And smaller house of a lower class family -- wide & narrow with wire-draped sheets separating some rooms.

Rain, rain, rain, rain. [jb0703.jpg] We were wet & uncomfortable but we persevered. [jb0706.jpg] Maurice's throat worsened.

We came dripping wet into a building that I thought was a museum. It had high ceilings and beautiful wood furniture. It was the home of Carlos Zerguera, City Historian. [jb0707.jpg] Despite our dripping umbrellas and obviously wet clothes, he invited us all to sit on his beautiful wooden chairs.

He spoke of the article that appeared in the Washington Post, 4/10/2001. He said there were two falsehoods in the article. First, the description of Cuba's relationship with Russia was not accurate. Second, he said that since his salary is in pesos it can't be translated into dollars as it was in the article (however, I learned that the exchange rate is 22 Cuban pesos to the dollar... so his comment is puzzling).

He has been working for years on the historical record of the country and the city. He mentioned a book that is soon to be published. At the end of our time with him, I mentioned that I was a librarian. He said that formerly, he was librarian of the province (after he left his career as a banker!).

Ordered lunch at 1:30 P.M. at a paladar that Martha suggested. Returned at 2:30 after going to the hotel and changing into some dry clothes. Lovely meal of avocado salad, chicken and rice.

Over lunch, Martha told us about how she became a librarian. Her father wanted her to be a doctor. But she couldn't stand the sight of blood. She was drawn to librarianship and served as a children's librarian for a while. After she had her triplets, she was invited to work at the Office of the Conservator of the City of Trinidad. She said that Carlos Zerguera is wealthy because he has a permit that allows him to take in renters (rooms). He is a former banker and library director. She had brought several pieces of jewelry that her husband made... and several of the women in our group purchased rings. [jb0709.jpg]

The guys and gals of the group split up... with the gals going shopping. Martha took us to the market. There we saw tables filled with crafts and other tables where young men gathered to play dominoes. [jb0710.jpg] My favorite crafts were the cars, motorcycles and cameras made of old soda and beer aluminum cans.

Women & children were coming up to us asking for pencils, pens, and soap.

Nestor picked us up near an Internet Café. It costs $5/hr if you can get a chance at the computer. [jb0711.jpg] There were 2 computers and 7 people were waiting their turn. I asked the group waiting some questions and found out that they were all from the U.S. and Europe. Talk about contrasts... on one block people begging for soap. On another, people waiting in line to use the Internet.